Lineapelle - 22-24 April - Economic situation - Fashion
1,245 exhibitors, 879 of them Italian and 366 foreign from 50 countries, covering a total stand and events area of 50,000 sq. m in 14 halls of the Bologna expo complex.
These are the figures for the upcoming edition of LINEAPELLE devoted to summer 2009, the eve of which is characterized by an uncertain market situation but at the same time companies strongly committed to presenting ideas that are ever richer in fashion and technological content.
Economic situation
For the tanning sector 2007 estimates indicate a 5.3% downturn in amounts produced and a growth of 1.7% in revenue.
Imports of raw materials show no important changes from 2006. Supplies from the European Community are increasing, while those from outside the EU are dropping.
Exports are up 4.4% in value, with the EU on the rise, the USA and South Korea sliding and China holding steady.
On the Italian district level Campania and Lombardy have grown by 18.8% and 14% respectively, Tuscany is stable and Veneto dipped 2.4%.
The first quarter of the year looked rather dreary in a continuation (and from some standpoints even a worsening) of the negative trend in which the past year closed for all LINEAPELLE exhibitor sectors. Overall production volumes were definitely backsliding compared to the same period a year ago. In destination sectors for LINEAPELLE commodities, footwear held steady in production and order terms.
The best performances were in the high range (with the U.S, doing well despite the bad exchange rate). Russian market dynamics continued to be brilliant. For the first half of the year predictions are for widespread stability, with bigger questions about the winter. Iberian manufacturers began the year in stasis after a slight uptake a year ago (forecasts are cautious due to internal consumption and exports) as did the French (in a critical situation with gloomy outlooks). Germany fared better both in domestic production and in delocalized manufacture nearby. In Asia, Vietnam's production and exports were up while China was slowing down.
No slowdown for Italian leather goods, for which further growth is foreseen. Among the domestic makers' foreign clients, USA is holding steady and the Eastern European markets (Russia in particular) are on the rise. Winter forecasts are uncertain for leather garments after a so-so showing this past winter season. In Europe only Germany and Poland looked fairly good, with France showing a seasonal drop after a slight uptake in the short term. Among the Asians, uncertainty reigned in China (with a drop in exports) and on the Indian subcontinent.
For leather upholstery the situation is a difficult one and very heterogeneous. In the USA the housing market crisis and drop in consumer confidence remain the most critical elements, with a slump in buying and a concentration on cheaper goods from Asia. In Italy and Europe generally there are some positive signs but only in the high and medium-high ranges. China is producing more but also feeling backlash from the recession in the United States, with slowdowns and heavy price competition.
Fashion
The shiny patent leathers continue to be offered in different types of shininess (dressed and waxcowleather).
In a counter-trend to an evolution towards the abrasive-treated is a desire for reinterpretations of classic leathers, soft with surface motion, a washed look on the puckered using the "sbagnatura" technique.
For materials and grains, naturalness, three-dimensionality, depth. A return to the opaque, especially suede.
New prints, like super-natural crocodile, and interweaves.
In line with summer optimism, bright and vivid colors (red, green, orange) and models that are more haute couture (sandals), with sneakers on their way out.
More attention to calfskins.
In textiles, too, a natural look, both in tones and in colors: from raw linen to straw and canvas. Cork and raffia-like weaves done even with synthetics.
Lots of stripes (combined with raw-look textiles and shiny silken yarns, with premium inserts), floral prints with appliqués of various types (beads, rhinestones and sequins), tartan plaids made brilliant with a glossy look.
Components and accessories are again recherché, carefully detailed and enriched with shiny elements and materials (rhinestones, beads, metallic thread), presented together with natural materials (wood, mother-of-pearl and natural stones). Overlays of materials are evident in both components and accessories: wood-on-wood, metal-on-metal (afterwards brushed) or mixed in contrasts (such as chromed metal with wood).
Heels are very important, presented as big features: high, with voluminous shapes more tapered at the base than in this past season and with a lighter-weight look.
Rich and elaborate heels, in some cases studded with stones and enamels.
Press release
Lineapelle